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How to Protect Suede Boots From Rain and Salt (and Rescue Them Afterwards)

“Suede isn't a summer-only material, it's just a material that needs its raincoat on before it goes out. Proof it properly and a damp British winter is no reason to leave your favourite boots in the wardrobe.”Her take

How to waterproof suede boots before the first wear

Proofing spray makes water bead and roll off instead of soaking in. It doesn't make suede fully waterproof, but it buys you the walk to the station in a shower.

Always test the spray on a hidden spot, such as the inside of the heel, and let it dry. Some sprays darken pale suede slightly.

• Brush the boots with a suede brush in one direction to lift the nap and remove dust.
• Stuff them with paper so the surface is firm and even.
• Work outside or by an open window. Hold the can about 15 to 20 cm away and spray in light, sweeping coats until the suede looks evenly damp, not soaked.
• Leave them to dry fully, ideally overnight, or as long as the can says.
• Add a second light coat and let them dry again before wearing.
• Brush once more to restore the soft nap.

How often to reapply

Through a wet winter, reapply every few weeks, or as soon as water stops beading on the surface. Splash a few drops on the toe to test. Always reproof after cleaning, because cleaning lifts some of the protection.

How to dry wet suede boots

Blot off surface water with a clean, dry towel. Don't rub. Stuff them firmly with plain paper or kitchen roll to hold the shape and draw moisture out, changing it when it's damp.

Dry them at room temperature, away from radiators, fires and hairdryers. Heat makes suede stiff and can crack it. Once completely dry, brush the nap back up in one direction.

How to remove water marks and salt stains

Water marks: the mark is the edge where the suede dried unevenly. Lightly dampen the whole panel with a clean, damp sponge so it's evenly wet from seam to seam, then stuff and dry it slowly. It dries one colour instead of with a tidemark.

Salt stains from gritted pavements show as white, crusty lines. Let the boots dry first, then brush off what you can. Mix white vinegar and water in roughly equal parts, dampen a cloth (don't soak it), and dab the line gently. Let it dry, then brush. Repeat if needed, and test on a hidden area first.

• Scuffs and shiny patches: rub gently with a suede eraser or a clean pencil rubber, then brush.
• Mud: let it dry completely, then brush it off. Wet mud rubbed in spreads the stain.

What never to do with suede

Don't dry it on a radiator or by the fire. Don't scrub it while wet. Don't use household cleaners or washing-up liquid, and never put suede boots in the washing machine. Don't use leather polish or conditioner, which flattens the nap.

On days with heavy rain, snow or slush, wear proper waterproof boots instead and keep suede for drier days. Even well-proofed suede has its limits.

Questions people ask

The takeaway

Brush, proof in two light coats before the first wear, reproof every few weeks, dry slowly with paper and never with heat, and deal with salt using diluted white vinegar.

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