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How to Wear a Gilet in Winter (Women): Fit, Layers and Five Outfits

“A gilet goes wrong when it's doing a coat's job. Wear one alone in December and you look cold and a bit lost. Wear it under a long coat or over a sharp knit, and it looks like you planned the outfit around it.”Her take

How should a gilet fit?

Try it on over the thickest jumper you'll realistically wear under it. It should zip without pulling across the bust, and the armholes should be deep enough that your knit sleeves don't bunch up at the shoulder. If you can see ridges of jumper pushing out of the armholes, the gilet is too small or the knit is too chunky for it.

Length changes everything. A hip-length gilet is the easiest; it covers the waistband of your jeans and works with almost every trouser. A cropped gilet that stops at the waist suits high-waisted trousers and wide-leg jeans. A long gilet that reaches mid-thigh or the knee works like a sleeveless coat and needs a slim layer underneath, or it swamps you.

What should you wear under a gilet?

The sleeves are the only part of your underlayer that shows all round, so they matter most. Fine-gauge knits, roll-necks, long-sleeved jersey tops and crisp cotton shirts all sit neatly. Chunky cable knits can work with a roomy padded gilet, but they make a fitted quilted one look stuffed.

Use the underlayer to add contrast. A cream roll-neck under a navy quilted gilet, a striped Breton top under khaki, a pale blue shirt with its collar out over a grey padded gilet. If the gilet and the knit are the same colour, add interest with texture instead, such as ribbed wool against a smooth nylon shell.

Can you wear a gilet under a coat?

Yes, and in a British winter it's often the smartest way to wear one. A thin, flat-quilted or lightly padded gilet under a long wool coat adds real warmth to your body without bulky sleeves fighting the coat's armholes. Choose one with a low or no collar so it doesn't push up against the coat collar.

Keep the gilet darker than or the same tone as the coat, so it reads as a lining rather than a second outfit when the coat is open. A charcoal gilet under a camel coat, or navy under navy, looks deliberate. Bulky puffer gilets won't fit under most tailored coats; save those for wearing on top.

Five winter gilet outfits

Each of these uses pieces most wardrobes already have. Swap the colours to suit what you own.

• Weekend: hip-length quilted navy gilet, cream roll-neck, dark straight jeans, brown leather ankle boots.
• Country walk: padded olive gilet over a fine merino knit, slim trousers or leggings tucked into knee-high boots, wool beanie and gloves.
• Office commute: slim charcoal gilet under a long camel coat, grey tailored trousers, loafers with thin socks.
• Long and lean: knee-length black gilet over a black fine-knit jumper and black straight trousers, so it reads as one column.
• Dress contrast: cropped padded gilet over a long-sleeved knitted midi dress, opaque tights and chunky lace-up boots.

Which gilet style suits which outfit?

Quilted gilets with a flat diamond or channel stitch are the smartest and the slimmest; they work with tailoring and under coats. Padded or puffer gilets are warmest and most casual, best with jeans, boots and knits. Fleece gilets are for walks and the school run rather than town. Faux fur gilets are dressier and add a lot of volume, so balance them with slim trousers and a fitted knit.

Tailored waistcoats are a different garment. They're cut close to the body, usually without padding, and are worn as part of an outfit rather than for warmth. If you want a warm layer, buy a gilet; if you want a polished one, buy a waistcoat.

How to stop a gilet making you look wider

Wear it open over a long, unbroken line of colour underneath, such as a black knit and black trousers. The open front creates two vertical edges that draw the eye down rather than across. Zipped right up, a padded gilet is basically a box.

Keep the bottom half slim if the gilet is bulky: straight or slim trousers, tights and boots, or a narrow midi skirt. Avoid very wide trousers with a puffy gilet unless the gilet is cropped and you show your waist. A gilet with a two-way zip lets you open the hem a little when you sit, which stops it riding up.

Questions people ask

The takeaway

Fit it over a real jumper, keep the sleeves underneath slim, wear it open over one long colour, and let it go under your coat when it's properly cold.

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