EVELYSS / Guides / Fashion Sense

How to Style a Long Skirt in Winter (Tights, Boots and Coat Length)

“A long skirt is the warmest thing you can wear that still reads as dressed. The trick is closing the gaps: no strip of cold shin between hem and boot, no coat that stops two inches short of the hem. Close the gaps and it looks deliberate.”Her take

Which long skirts work in winter?

Weight does most of the work. Wool, tweed, corduroy, velvet, heavy knit and lined satin all hold their shape over tights and boots, and they don't cling to your legs when you walk. A lightweight chiffon or thin jersey skirt can work too, but only over thermal leggings and with a heavy knit on top to balance it.

Check the movement before you commit. Walk a few steps in front of a mirror with your boots on. If the skirt grabs your tights and rides up, add a slip or a pair of smooth tights underneath; static and friction are the most common winter skirt problem.

What to wear underneath

Opaque tights are the base layer for most of winter. Around 40 denier gives good coverage with a little skin showing in bright light; 60 denier and above looks fully solid, and fleece-lined tights are the step up for properly cold days. Denier ratings vary between makers, so judge a pair on your leg, not just the label. Match the tights to your boots so the leg reads as one line when the skirt moves or a slit opens.

On the coldest days, thermal leggings cut to just above the ankle go under a full-length skirt without showing. Keep them thin and smooth so the skirt still hangs straight.

Which boots close the gap?

Knee-high boots are the easiest choice because the shaft hides under the hem. Aim for the skirt to overlap the top of the boot by at least two or three inches when you're standing, so walking and sitting don't flash a strip of leg.

Ankle boots work with a maxi skirt that nearly reaches them, especially with tights in the same color. With a midi-length skirt and ankle boots, the visible shin breaks the line; add tall boots or switch to a longer skirt. A slight heel or a lug sole keeps a long hem off wet pavement.

• Knee-high leather boots: the most polished, works with any long skirt.
• Riding or flat tall boots: the everyday version, good for walking.
• Ankle boots plus matching tights: only with a hem that nearly meets the boot.

What top balances a long skirt?

A long skirt has a lot of fabric, so the top should be closer to the body. A fine-gauge turtleneck, a fitted crew neck or a ribbed knit tucked in all keep the waist visible and stop the outfit looking like a column of layers.

If you want a chunky sweater, tuck just the front few inches into the waistband or add a belt over it. An oversized knit worn loose over a full skirt hides the waist and makes both pieces look bigger than they are.

Which coat length works with a long skirt?

Choose one of two lengths. A coat that ends at the hip, like a peacoat, a short puffer or a cropped wool jacket, shows off the skirt and keeps the proportions clean. A coat that is as long as the skirt or longer, like a full-length wool coat, covers everything and reads as one elegant line.

The length to avoid is a coat that stops just above the skirt hem, so a few inches of skirt peek out at the bottom. It looks accidental. Leave a long coat open so the skirt and boots show as you walk.

Three long-skirt outfits for winter

Start from these and change the colors to suit your wardrobe.

• Work: charcoal wool midi-to-maxi skirt, black fine-knit turtleneck tucked in, black opaque tights, black knee-high boots, hip-length wool coat.
• Weekend: brown corduroy maxi skirt, cream crew-neck sweater half-tucked, brown tights, flat tall boots, short shearling-style jacket.
• Evening: black velvet or satin maxi skirt, fitted black knit, sheer black tights, heeled knee boots, full-length coat worn open.

Questions people ask

The takeaway

Heavy fabric, opaque tights, a boot that disappears under the hem, a fitted top, and a coat that is clearly short or clearly long.

Read next