How to Curl Hair With a Flat Iron (Beach Waves and Bouncy Curls, Step by Step)
Work on fully dry hair with heat protectant. Clamp a 1-inch section near the root, twist the iron half a turn away from your face, and glide it slowly down to the ends. Slower makes tighter curls; faster makes looser waves. Let each curl cool before touching it, then rake it apart with your fingers.
“Speed is the secret. Same iron, same twist: glide slowly and you get a ringlet, glide quickly and you get a soft wave. Practice on three sections at different speeds and you'll know your setting forever.”Her take
What you need and the right heat
A flat iron with rounded outer edges and 1-inch plates is the easiest for curling; wider plates make looser waves and are harder to twist. You also need a heat protectant, clips to section and a light hairspray.
Use the lowest heat that holds a curl in your hair. Start low and go up only if the curl won't hold. As a general guide, fine, damaged or color-treated hair usually needs only about 250 to 300°F, medium hair about 300 to 375°F, and thick or coarse hair about 375 to 410°F. Never curl damp hair; if you hear sizzling, stop and dry it first.
Step 1: Prep and section
Start with clean, fully dry hair. Mist or comb heat protectant through, especially mid-lengths and ends. Divide hair into a bottom layer and a top layer and clip the top out of the way.
Take sections about 1 inch wide. Thinner sections give more defined curls; thicker sections give looser, more relaxed waves.
Step 2: Clamp, twist, glide
Clamp the iron horizontally on a section a few inches from the root. Rotate the iron half a turn, so the hair wraps over the top of one plate, turning away from your face. Keep that twist and glide the iron slowly down toward the ends in one smooth pass.
Keep steady tension by holding the end of the section lightly with your free hand. If the iron stops moving, it leaves a crease, so keep it in motion the whole time.
- Bouncy curls: glide slowly, about 4 to 5 seconds from top to bottom.
- Loose waves: glide faster, about 2 seconds, and leave the last 1 to 2 inches of the ends straight.
- Face-framing pieces: always turn them away from the face so they open up the look.
Step 3: Let curls cool, then break them up
Hair sets as it cools, not while it's hot. Don't touch, brush or shake each curl until it's cool to the touch. For extra hold, pin each fresh curl in a loop against your head and let it cool for a few minutes.
Once everything is cool, rake your fingers through gently, or use a wide-tooth comb for softer waves. Finish with a light mist of hairspray held about 10 inches away.
Adjusting for long, medium and short hair
Long hair: start the twist a little lower, around cheekbone level, so the weight doesn't pull the curl out at the top. Work in smaller sections.
Medium hair: start about 2 inches from the root and alternate the direction of each section for a more natural look.
Short hair: use a narrower iron if you have one, take very small sections, and leave the ends straight so the style looks modern rather than set.
Common problems, fixed
Creases or dents: you paused or clamped too hard. Keep the iron moving and loosen your grip slightly.
Curls fall out within an hour: try slightly smaller sections, let curls cool fully before touching, and use a light hold product before heat, not just after.
Frizz on top: smooth that section with one straight pass before you curl it.
Questions people ask
Can you curl hair with any flat iron?
Most work, but irons with rounded outer edges and plates about 1 inch wide are easiest. Sharp-edged plates can leave lines.
Which way do you turn the flat iron to curl hair?
Turn the iron half a turn away from your face, and keep turning the same direction on that side. Switch direction on the other side so both sides turn away from your face.
How do I make flat iron curls last longer?
Use smaller sections, let each curl cool before touching it, and finish with light hairspray. Pinning curls while they cool helps fine hair.
Should my hair be wet or dry to curl with a flat iron?
Completely dry. Using a hot iron on damp hair can damage it.
What temperature should I curl my hair at?
The lowest that holds a curl: roughly 250 to 300°F for fine or color-treated hair, 300 to 375°F for medium hair, and 375 to 410°F for thick or coarse hair.
The takeaway
Dry hair, protectant, the lowest heat that holds, 1-inch sections, a half twist away from your face, glide speed for curl size, and hands off until each curl is cool.
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