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Gold-Filled vs. Gold-Plated Jewelry: The Difference, the Stamps and Which to Buy

“The question isn't which is better; it's how you'll wear it. A chain you'll never take off deserves gold-filled or solid. An earring you'll wear to three parties this season can be plated. Spend where the friction is.”Her take

What's the difference between gold-filled and gold-plated?

Both put real gold on the outside of a less costly metal. The difference is how much gold, and how it gets there. Gold-filled uses a sheet of karat gold that's bonded to a core, usually brass, with heat and pressure, then shaped. Most gold-plated pieces are made first and then coated with a thin layer of gold using electricity.

In the US, the Federal Trade Commission's Jewelry Guides set out how these words should be used. Gold-filled should mean a mechanically bonded layer of at least 10-karat gold that makes up at least 1/20 of the weight of the metal in the piece. Gold electroplate should be at least 10-karat gold with a thickness equivalent to at least 0.175 microns of fine gold, and heavy gold electroplate at least 2.5 microns. Gold-filled layers are typically many times thicker than standard plating.

One wrinkle: the guides also allow the term gold plate for a mechanically bonded layer that's at least 1/40 of the metal weight, half the gold-filled minimum. In shops and online, though, gold-plated almost always means electroplated, so ask if it matters to you.

Where does gold vermeil fit in?

Vermeil is gold over sterling silver rather than brass. Under the FTC guides, it should be at least 10-karat gold, equivalent to at least 2.5 microns of fine gold, over sterling silver. That makes it a thicker, better-quality plate, with a precious metal underneath.

It wears like heavy plating, not like gold-filled. With careful wear, vermeil lasts longer than standard plating, and if the gold wears through, you see silver rather than brass.

How to read the stamps

Look inside rings, on clasps, and on the posts or backs of earrings. Small plated pieces are often unstamped, so if a seller can't tell you what something is, assume it's plated.

• 14K GF or 1/20 14K GF: gold-filled, with 14-karat gold making up at least 1/20 of the metal weight.
• 12K GF or 1/20 12K GF: gold-filled with 12-karat gold, slightly paler and a little less costly.
• RGP: rolled gold plate, the same bonding method as gold-filled, with the gold fraction stated (for example 1/40) and often less gold than gold-filled.
• GP or GEP: gold-plated or gold electroplate.
• HGE or HGP: heavy gold electroplate, a thicker plating.
• 925 with vermeil in the description: gold over sterling silver.
• 14K, 585, 18K or 750 alone: solid gold of that karat.

Which lasts longer, and why?

Gold-filled lasts much longer because there's simply more gold to wear away. With everyday wear, a good gold-filled chain or pair of hoops can keep its color for years. Plating wears through faster, sometimes within months on pieces that rub against skin, clothes or a desk.

Where you wear a piece matters. Rings and bracelets take the most friction and show wear first. Necklaces and earrings get much less, so plated earrings for occasional wear can look good for a long time.

Which should you buy for what?

Match the material to how often you'll wear it and how hard it works.

• Everyday chain, hoops or studs you never take off: gold-filled or solid gold.
• Rings and bangles worn daily: solid gold if you can, gold-filled otherwise. Plated rings wear quickly on the palm side.
• Trend pieces and party earrings: plated or vermeil is sensible.
• Gifts for someone who wears jewelry daily: gold-filled or vermeil, and say which on the gift card so they know how to care for it.
• If certain metals bother your skin: ask what the base metal is before you buy, because once gold wears through, that metal touches your skin.

How to care for gold-filled and gold-plated jewelry

Put jewelry on last, after lotion, perfume and hairspray, and take it off first. Remove plated pieces before showering, swimming, working out or cleaning. Gold-filled is tougher and handles water better, but chlorine and harsh cleaners still dull it.

Wipe pieces with a soft, dry cloth after wearing. For gold-filled, a little mild soap and lukewarm water is fine; dry thoroughly. Never use abrasive polish or a polishing cloth with chemicals on plated pieces, because it removes the gold. Store each piece separately so chains don't scratch each other.

Questions people ask

The takeaway

Gold-filled for what you wear every day, plated or vermeil for occasional pieces, check the stamp or ask, and keep everything away from water, lotion and abrasives.

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