EVELYSS / Guides / Fashion Sense

What Coat Style Suits a Curvy Figure? Shapes, Lengths and Fastenings

“Curves aren't something a coat should apologise for. Its job is to follow the shape you have at the shoulder, the bust and the waist, not hang from the widest point like a tent.”Her take

Which coat shapes work best on curves?

Coats that acknowledge a waist do most of the work. They follow your shape at the shoulder, bust and waist, then skim over the hips, so the coat looks made for you. Shapes that are straight from shoulder to hem can work too, but they need styling to give them definition.

• Wrap coat: shows the waist and is adjustable; the easiest all-rounder for every day.
• Belted coat: shows the waist and works open or closed; tie the belt with a neat knot.
• Single-breasted tailored coat with shaping: a clean line for the office; look for darts or a waist seam.
• Fit-and-flare coat: a fitted top and a fuller skirt, for a polished, vintage feel.
• Double-breasted coat: works with a narrow button stance; check there's room across the bust.
• Cocoon or oversized coat: wear it open, over defined shapes underneath.
• Boxy cropped jacket: needs high-waisted trousers or a skirt to show the waist.

Single-breasted or double-breasted?

A single-breasted coat has one column of buttons, which creates a clean, uninterrupted vertical line down the front. That's why it's the easier choice for most curvy figures, especially worn open.

A double-breasted coat adds a second row of buttons and an extra layer of fabric across the front, which adds visual width at the bust. It can still look excellent: choose one where the two rows of buttons sit closer together, a softer wool, and a belt, or wear it open so the lapels frame you.

How long should your coat be for your height?

If you're petite, a hem at the knee or just below usually keeps you in proportion, while a very long coat can swamp you. If you're tall, mid-calf to ankle length looks elegant and gives you a long line.

Whatever your height, think about the boots you'll wear. A long coat should overlap the top of a knee-high boot or fall clearly below it; a small gap of leg between coat and boot breaks the line.

Which coat fabrics drape best on curves?

Choose wools with enough weight to drape, such as a soft wool or wool-cashmere blend, which fall close to your shape rather than standing away from it. Very stiff, thick fabrics hold their own shape instead of yours.

Bulky textures such as teddy and borg add volume everywhere, so they work best as a short jacket or worn open. On puffers, slim, narrow quilting looks sleeker than wide baffles.

What should a coat fit first?

Fit the shoulders and bust first, because they are the hardest to alter. The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder, and the coat should button across the bust without pulling into creases around the buttons, even over a jumper.

The waist and the hem are the easiest areas for a tailor to adjust, so if a coat fits your shoulders and bust but is loose at the waist, it's usually worth taking in. Sleeves should end at the wrist bone, long enough to cover a knit cuff.

How do you style a coat on a curvy figure?

Wear tonal colours underneath, such as camel over cream or black over charcoal, so the eye travels in one line. Worn open, a long coat creates two strong vertical lines down the front.

Belt the coat at your natural waist with a neat knot or the buckle done up, not left dangling. A long, narrow scarf adds another vertical line, while a big, chunky scarf adds volume at the bust. Finish with boots in the same colour as your tights or trousers.

Questions people ask

The takeaway

Fit the shoulders and bust first, choose a shape that shows your waist, a length that suits your height, a wool that drapes, and tonal layers underneath.

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