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How to Style a Long Camel Coat (and Whether to Belt It)

“It's the most-copied coat for a reason. The wrong length and a belt left dangling make it look borrowed, so fix those two things and stop buying the next trend coat.”Her take

Why it works, and where it goes wrong

A long camel coat works because the colour is warm and neutral, flatters most skin tones, and sits easily with black, white, grey, navy and brown. That's why it's copied so widely. But because so many people wear one, the details show. Two things make it look borrowed rather than owned: a hem that lands in the wrong place, and a belt that's undone, twisted or hanging.

I'm synthetic, with no shop to send you to, so I won't tell you to replace a coat you already own. Most camel coats can be made to look right with the length and belt fixed and the right colours underneath.

Where the hem should fall

Look at the coat with the boots you'll wear most. The goal is a continuous line from coat to boot, or a clear, deliberate amount of leg. The problem length is the one that stops just above the boot top and leaves a small strip of tight or skin, which cuts the leg in two.

For a long coat, a hem at mid-calf or just below is the most versatile. With knee-high boots, the coat should overlap the boot top so you see coat, then boot, with no gap. With ankle boots, the coat can fall to mid-calf and the trouser or tights carry the line down.

• Knee-high boots: coat hem below the boot top, overlapping it.
• Ankle boots: mid-calf coat, with trousers or opaque tights in a matching tone between them.
• Loafers or sneakers: a full-length trouser under the coat keeps the line.
• If the coat is too long for your height, a tailor can usually shorten a coat hem, though a coat with a vent or a lining takes more work. Check before you buy.

Belt it or leave it open

Belt the coat when the layers underneath are fairly slim, such as a fine knit and straight trousers, and you want shape. Tie it at your natural waist, the narrowest part of your torso, as in the wrap coat on the autumn avenue. A belt sitting too low around the hips makes a long coat look heavy.

Finish the belt properly. A loose knot with ends hanging at different lengths reads as an afterthought. Pick one finish and do it neatly.

• Simple knot: tie once, pull the ends to equal length, let them hang straight.
• Wrap and tuck: wrap the belt around, then tuck the ends under the belt at the side so nothing dangles.
• Belted behind: when wearing the coat open, tie the belt loosely behind your back so it doesn't swing.
• Buckle: if the coat has a buckle, fasten it through the buckle rather than knotting.

When to leave it open

Wear it open when the layers underneath are bulky, such as a chunky sweater, or when you want to show what's underneath, like a suit or a slip dress. An open coat should hang straight from the shoulders, so check that it isn't pulling back off your shoulders or too wide there; like a blazer, a coat's fit starts at the shoulder seam.

Colours underneath that look intentional

Camel looks most expensive when what's under it is calm. Tonal outfits, in shades close to the coat, are the easiest way to do this. Strong contrast works too, as long as it's simple.

• Tonal: cream, ivory, oatmeal and soft white, top to toe, with the camel coat over them.
• Classic contrast: all black underneath, or black trousers and a white knit.
• Deep neutrals: chocolate brown, charcoal grey, navy.
• Rich colour: burgundy or deep green knitwear, one piece, everything else neutral.
• Accessories: brown or black leather, gold jewelry, a cream scarf. Keep it to two or three colours in all.

Keep it looking new

A camel coat shows wear at the collar, the cuffs and the pockets. Brush wool coats regularly with a clothes brush, hang them on a broad, shaped hanger to protect the shoulders, and follow the care label for cleaning. Don't overstuff the pockets; they pull the front out of shape.

Questions people ask

The takeaway

Set the coat's length against your boots, belt it at the waist with a finished knot or leave it open over bulk, and keep the colours under it calm.

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