How to Wear Pearls So They Look Modern

The short answer

Pearls only look dated when the whole outfit is dated. Wear a classic strand with something casual, like a white tee, denim or an open crisp shirt. Try baroque shapes or a single pearl on a chain, and wear one pearl piece at a time, or two that don't match. Put them on last and take them off first.

EVELYSS wearing a strand of white pearls with mismatched baroque pearl drop earrings — Ms. Evelyss, AI-generated fashion muse.

“Your grandmother's pearls aren't the problem. The matching twinset, the matching earrings and the matching bracelet are. Wear the strand with a T-shirt and see how fast it stops looking like a costume.”Her take

Pearls aren't dated. The outfit is.

A strand of pearls looks old-fashioned when everything around it is formal too: a matching set, a buttoned-up blouse, a careful handbag. Wear it with all of those at once and it reads like a period costume. The pearls themselves never went out of style. What changed is that nobody dresses in matching head-to-toe sets anymore.

The modern way to wear pearls is contrast. Pair something traditional with something relaxed and the pearls look intentional, a little unexpected, and very sure of themselves.

Pair a classic strand with something casual

The more ordinary the outfit, the better a strand of pearls looks. Pearls are polished and soft at the same time, which is exactly what plain basics need.

White or grey crew-neck tee: wear a princess-length strand just above or just below the neckline.
Crisp shirt unbuttoned at the collar: the pearls sit on skin inside the open neck, with sleeves rolled.
Black fine-knit turtleneck: a longer strand worn over the knit.
Denim jacket or a chambray shirt: one of the best contrasts there is, polished against rugged.
Chunky knit sweater: a long strand, or a strand doubled over, against the texture.

Try baroque and other modern shapes

Baroque pearls are irregular in shape rather than perfectly round, and that irregularity is what makes them look current. Each one is different, so a baroque piece never looks like part of a set. A baroque drop earring, a single baroque pearl on a fine gold chain, or a strand of uneven pearls all feel easier and more personal than a row of identical spheres.

Other easy ways in are a single pearl pendant on a thin chain, small pearl hoops or huggies, or one pearl drop layered with fine gold necklaces. Pearls and gold together look warm and relaxed, and pearls with silver look cooler and more graphic. Both work.

One pearl piece at a time, or two that don't match

The quickest way to look dated is the matching set: strand, studs and bracelet all in the same round white pearl. Choose one piece to lead. If you want to wear two, make them different in shape or scale. A classic round strand with baroque drop earrings works because the two pieces don't copy each other.

Keep the rest of your jewellery simple when pearls are on. A watch and a ring are plenty.

Pick the right length

Length changes how formal pearls feel. These ranges are approximate, and where a strand lands depends on your neck and shoulders.

Collar or choker, about 14 to 16 inches: sits at the base of the neck; good with open collars and strapless necklines.
Princess, about 17 to 19 inches: the easiest length, good with almost every neckline.
Matinee, about 20 to 24 inches: falls on the upper chest; good over a tee or a knit.
Opera, about 28 to 36 inches: worn long or doubled into two strands.
Rope, longer than opera: can be knotted, doubled or wrapped.

Pearl care: last on, first off

Pearls are soft and react to chemicals, so they need a little more care than metal or diamonds. The rule is last on, first off: put them on after makeup, perfume, hairspray and lotion have settled, and take them off before you take anything else off.

After wearing, wipe them gently with a soft, dry or slightly damp cloth. Store them flat in a soft pouch, away from other jewellery that could scratch them. Don't hang a strung strand for long periods, because the silk thread stretches. Keep them out of chlorinated water, and don't put them in ultrasonic cleaners or use harsh cleaning products on them. Strands worn often should be restrung now and then, ideally knotted between each pearl, so a broken thread loses one pearl, not all of them. A jeweller can tell you when it's time.

Questions people ask

Can you wear pearls with jeans?

Yes, and it's one of the most modern ways to wear them. Try a strand with a white tee and jeans, or a single pearl pendant with a denim shirt.

What are baroque pearls?

Baroque pearls have irregular, non-round shapes. They look more relaxed and individual than perfectly round pearls, which is why they suit modern styling.

Should pearl earrings match a pearl necklace?

They don't have to, and outfits often look fresher when they don't. Pair a round strand with baroque drops, or wear just one pearl piece.

How do I keep pearls looking good?

Put them on last and take them off first, wipe them with a soft cloth after wearing, store them flat and apart from other jewellery, and have often-worn strands restrung by a jeweller.

The takeaway

Contrast makes pearls modern: a classic strand with casual clothes, baroque shapes, no matching sets, and the last-on, first-off rule.